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Surfing was not popular anymore and the surf spots were hundreds of people used to surf, were empty.

Jack London, a famous writer came to Waikiki in where he was introduced to swimming club. One of those men was Alexander Hume Ford, a journalist and wanderer.


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Together they founded the first Hawaiian Outrigger Canoe Club, the first modern club dedicated to wave riding. The club offered facilities for dressing and storage for the boards. In a few years the club grew enormously and there were more than members and with hundreds on the waiting list.

The other pioneer who brought surfing back to life is the Hawaiian beach boy Duke Paoa Kahanamoku. He was already a famous surfer and swimmer.

Surfing nearly went extinct?!

He was the three-time world record holder in the meter freestyle. He won gold at the meter freestyle at the Olympics in in Stockholm and in in Antwerp.

The Origin in Hawaii

This made him world famous and he traveled all around the world to give swim exhibitions. Hollywood directors wanted him in movies as Aztec chiefs, Hindu thieves, and Arab princes.


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This gave him many new friends from Hollywood who introduced to the world of surfing. The history of surfing in Hawaii goes back to the 4th century a. They brought many of their customs with them including playing in the surf on Paipo belly boards. It was here in Hawaii that the art of standing and surfing upright on long boards was invented. Many Ancient Hawaiian chants tell of Christening surfboards.

The history of surfing in Hawaii tells of chants to the Gods to make big waves for surfing and chants to give courage to the men who rode these waves. Hawaii was ruled by many different Kapu taboos. These kapu regulated everything from where and what to eat to learning how to build a good surfboard and how to convince the Gods to make the surf good. There were certain beaches that the ali'i would surf on boards up to 24 feet long, while commoners would surf at different beaches and ride boards up to 12 feet long.

They insisted that the Polynesians wear clothes, learn to read and write and work more and play less. They discouraged the Hawaiians from surfing. South Oahu was about the only place a few people would still surf in the Hawaiian Islands.


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When there were once hundreds of surfers now there were only a small handful. When Polynesia was discovered by Europeans , the history of surfing was written long before - or rather was sung long before. The Polynesians, who had no writing literature but only a sharp historical consciousness, inherited their stories in the form of songs and legends.

History of surfing

They sang about the glorious actions of the best surfers and asked the god of the sea to keep the small waves away and to send the large waves. When James Cook discovered Hawaii in he observed the indigenous people surfing. His notes, which represent the first written text about surfing, show that Cook was fascinated by this sport. The expeditions that followed later were not as sensitive as human and those at the time of Cook.

A part from whalers and missionaries came mainly warships to colonize the paradise island. They brought diseases, alcoholism and desire to win that spread among the Polynesians. The number of Hawaiians decreased rapidly. In there were still more than , Hawaiians, in there were barely 40, inhabitants left. In that year the feast "Makahiki" was held for the last time. The missionaries replaced the pagan traditions unscrupulous behavior by strict church. Also, surfing was considered a useless waste of time, pagan and immoral practiced by men and women together , and in was banned.

The economic situation worsened for the Hawaiians and its connections with world trade. The income of the whaling and timber industry also fell and the industry had to pay high taxes. Things did not look good for surfing. Surfing cultural intergration were lost due to current kings being too busy, so surf around disappeared from most parts of Hawaii and Polynesia.

With the founding of the first Hawaiian surf club in began an new era , which is still living today, when the surf again was reborn and developed through George Freeth and Duke Kahanamoku worldwide. The first surfers in Europe were probably Frence forest workers.

History of surfing · Surf School "gyqacyxaja.cf"

In the year of the idea was to ride on half logs. The architect Adrien Durupt is considered the first "real" surfer in Europe. In the year of he brought back a surfboard from California to surf it close to La Baule-Escoublac in France. In Peter Viertel, a writer married to Hollywood actress Deborah Kerr came to Biarritz for the shooting of a film. He liked the waves a lot and he bought a board in California. With him began the Frenchman Michel Barland, Georges Henebutte, inventor of the leash the "invention" and Joel de Rosnay, who then founded the first French surf club.